Posts: 6
Joined: 01 Jul 2018, 22:42


Postby photokweon » 13 Jan 2019, 20:55

Last edited by photokweon on 15 Sep 2019, 11:53, edited 1 time in total.

Walter Glover
Posts: 932
Joined: 31 Jul 2012, 22:31
Location: Canterbury, NSW

Re: University of Southern Queensland

Postby Walter Glover » 14 Jan 2019, 03:58

Reinforces my belief that Black & White is the best colour you can get.
Walter Glover

"Photography was not a bastard left by science on the doorstep of art, but a legitimate child of the Western pictorial tradition." —Robert Galassi

Posts: 113
Joined: 21 Mar 2015, 17:20

Re: University of Southern Queensland

Postby Bazz8 » 14 Jan 2019, 05:41

B+W image for me although the slightly darker red tree Bottom LH Side show the variation in the colour image.
and real sharp :geek:

Mick Fagan
Posts: 208
Joined: 24 Sep 2015, 21:20
Location: Melbourne

Re: University of Southern Queensland

Postby Mick Fagan » 14 Jan 2019, 12:44

Very interesting to see colour and B&W for the exact same scene, presumably only minutes apart.

Your technique is right on the money, the shadow detail in the B&W is exceptionally good, more so as it is near the edges of a wide angle lens. No mention of a graduated centre filter and yet the tones are pretty level from corner to corner; nice.

Getting to the aesthetically pleasing part, it scores very well, I like it.

The Fuji 160C is a film I haven't used much in the past, preferring the Kodak version as I got it cheaper. That said, both are/were brilliant films. The Fuji film you have used is a high contrast one, very well suited to your subject.

As for which version, I think the B&W is easier to look at, at the same time, the colour version is good as well.

If you have any more of that Fuji film and wish to use it under Tungsten lighting, it performs really well with an 80A filter at 32 ASA and extending the C41 bath by 15 seconds (for a half stop push) then use a stop bath to knock the developing dead in an instant. By overexposing slightly, then giving it a slight contrast kick with over development, one could get some super nice product shots with no apparent grain change. With Tungsten lights, that film is nominally rated at 50 ASA and my developing notes I've just checked, concur with that speed rating under Tungsten.

I've been looking at Foma 100 for some time now, used it sparingly over the last couple of years. But I will be giving it a bit of a push in the next couple of weeks as we undertake a road trip to Toowoomba for a friend's 70th birthday in 1½ weeks.

The developing times are very interesting, the difference between 20ºC and 30ºC is staggering; more than I expected.


Ps: The scary part of the upcoming road trip, 50 years ago I attended his 20th.

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