RoganJosh wrote:Does anyone else find film testing somewhat useless unless your gonna be printing chemically? There is so much dynamic range leeway with modern films that you can afford to raise those shadows an extra 2/3 of a stop to account for box speed inconsistencies. I also find myself using contraction/expansion less and less now that photoshop can control the shadows, midtones and highlights individually and with such precision. Don't get me wrong, I think any serious photographer should know and use the zone system but there is no need to adhere so strictly to it anymore.
As long as I know the film is going to hold the information I need, why waste time tinkering that is better spent behind the camera.
However, I disagree that PS is a panacea for poor exposure.
Lachlan717 wrote:Maris wrote:The exposure sequence with respect to "box speed" goes 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 1x, 2x, 4x, 8x, 16x, and 32x….
I've got 10 exposures at 1 stop increments...
It seems to me that, if you don't start with a repeated time, you will not have an accurate 10-stop range; it will be just over 11 stops (1025/16th to be exact).
With the spread that you gave, you would need to run the shots as 1/16, 1/16, 1/8, 1/4 etc. As you have detailed it, the first exposure will be 1/16, the second will be 3/16 (rather than the required 2/16), the third on 7/16 (not the 4/16 needed), the forth 15/16 (not the 8/16) and so on down to a 32 second exposure being a cumulative total of 1025/16th (64 1/16th seconds). You need to factor in the cumulative aspect of multiple exposure, meaning that you will be about a stop out per "band" after the initial 1/16th one.
Also, I doubt that running shots past 1 second will be of much value for working out EI for most films due to reciprocity failure skewing results. It is fine once you have EI worked out, but only to ascertain reciprocity compensation for a given EI. You would be best served by shooting the first two "bands" of film at your fastest available shutter speed (light permitting).
It would also be very useful to have a calibration of shutter speeds done prior to doing any testing in order to know if you are actually giving the exposure at the stated shutter speed…
[/quote]If you have an enlarger, a simpler and more accurate process would be to flash a piece of the test film with a Step Wedge over it (see http://www.viewcamerastore.com/servlet/ ... ion/Detail).
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