Large Format Photography Australia

Infra red sounds interesting.
Think I'll be having a go at the BW processing but probably using some sort of tank system as I don't have a darkroom.
What about colour?
Is anyone using the Fuji instant colour film for 4x5?
I've seen where you can get a negative from these by using bleach to remove the back but not sure how good the negs would be.

I've just done my first E-6. Easy, but I do have a CPP2...

I'm in Brisbane. Prolab did my first set of 8 transparencies (a while ago now so was only $10 a sheet!). That convinced me right there that I had to do my own E6.
It's REALLY easy. I picked up an old CPE for under $300. It's done over 200 sheets now. I've got it down to around $1.40 a sheet. And it is the best feeling ever doing it yourself.
Prolab don't drum scan but they do have a very good flat bed and a good operator. My first exhibition was scanned and printed there and they did a great a job. 52" Fujiflex prints are something to see. But VERY expensive to make, mount and frame.
If you have questions on DIY E6 I'm happy to help. If you are in Brisbane you can even drop around and check out my set-up. You bring the beer....

Hi Bionzo, you'll have to explain what a CPE is.
I have done my own 35mm BW negatives and printing but that was many years ago when I had access to the club darkroom at work.
The more I look at all this the more I think I'll be going the way you did, and do my own BW processing at least.
My 4x5 camera has now landed in Oz from Germany so should be delivered anytime soon.
Looking forward to getting those big prints done.

Hi Lachlan.
What sort of setup are you using for the E-6.
Not sure what a CCP2.. is.
Let me know the details if you have time.
Thanks.

Hi, Paul.

Both Boinzo and I were referring to film/paper processors made by Jobo. They offer various levels of automation for developing.

The main similarity in all Jobo machines is a water tempering bath, allowing constant temperature in the Dev process. This is very important in colour processing; less so in B&W.

They certainly aren't a necessity, but they do make it easier to get consistant reaults with low fuss!!

Options such as aquarium heaters and heating pads are other ways to do this, as are large volume water baths. They just don't offer the easy accuracy of the Jobos.

Sorry Paul. Yeah, as Lachlan says... I meant a Jobo CPE-2 processor. But the motor burnt out in mine yesterday! Had to do the last 7 minutes spinning by hand...
The search for a replacement starts today!

You realy should learn to at least do your own B&W processing ,there are many ways to process the film there are way to many variables that affect the outcome of the negative that you will want and need control over such as different developers and development times.

Colour films do not have as many variables if any but the process is a lot more critical so are better done in a lab.

That being said E6 or even C41 is not hard to do at home but it does take a bit of practice and a few failures to tweak up the procedure to get it right.

B&W films are no more difficult than making the perfect cup of coffee and it is cheap with 6 sheets costing about the same as that coffee

I think that the most difficult thing with E-6 is to get a concise First Developer time for both constant agitation AND compensating for Fuji films.

I still cannot find a specific time for Fuji. Some sites say to add 16% (with Tetenal Colortec), and add extra time for Jobo/constant. However, Tetenal's instruction booklet makes no mention of this 16% increase.

My 'chromes are coming out fine, but there still lingers some doubt as to whether I am developing for the correct time.