Building a 7x17 inch ULF camera

Cameras, lenses, tripods..
Lachlan717
Posts: 494
Joined: 03 Aug 2012, 16:49

Re: Building an 8x10.

Postby Lachlan717 » 05 Jan 2013, 15:36

smbooth wrote:Joints are looking nice, what are you using as a jig to index the cut.


Still working on the jig, Shane. It's being a pain in the bum at the moment… Can't seem to get repeatable results. Obviously, this is a problem.

I'm using a 3.5mm thick piece of pine as a spacing "key"; however, this is bending when I stack pieces over it.

I've decided to try 2 more designs. The first will be to have a aluminium "key" and I'm going to add a T-square to make sure that the timber is exactly vertical.

The second is going to use a piece of threaded rod, a finely divided rule and a magnifying glass to move the T-square. The rod will allow accurate movement of the carriage, while the magnifying glass and rule will (hopefully) allow really accurate positioning.

Hopefully, I'll be getting some Aluminium sheet this week (5mm) for the rear standard assembly. Have to learn how to mill this and how to anodise it.

I'm also going to drill the bolts that will allow the twin function/single knob adjustments on the standards.

Busy.

alexn
Posts: 95
Joined: 26 Jul 2012, 13:58
Location: Brisbane.
Contact:

Re: Building an 8x10.

Postby alexn » 05 Jan 2013, 19:30

Looking great Lachlan.

I've been considering building an 8x10 box camera for taking portraits of my kid(s) as they grow up...

I essentially want to build two half boxes with an 8x10 back on one, and a lens board on the other. It would be fairly crude, but it doesn't need all the niceties of a field camera, I don't require front and rear tilt, swing, shift, rise and fall... Front tilt and swing will be plenty..

Keen on watching your progress here, and as per our PM's, Get some Ektar 100 for it. Its in my opinion, the nicest colour film still available in sheets... that and Portra 160 VC.

Love the look of the wood you'll be building your camera out of.. Really nice looking colour and grain.

Alex.
http://www.facebook.com/alexartphotography - Alex art photography on Facebook
http://www.alexartphotography.com - Alex Nicholas Fine Art Photography

Lachlan717
Posts: 494
Joined: 03 Aug 2012, 16:49

Re: Building an 8x10.

Postby Lachlan717 » 07 Jan 2013, 16:31

smbooth wrote:Joints are looking nice, what are you using as a jig to index the cut.


Shane,

Update:

I'm going to bung one of these on the saw table: http://www.leestyron.com/lynnjig.php

Biggest benefit is being able to do all 8 sides in only 2 passes.

I'm hoping that this is the most accurate versus quick way to do this...

smbooth
Posts: 405
Joined: 29 Jul 2012, 00:20

Re: Building an 8x10.

Postby smbooth » 07 Jan 2013, 21:11

I've never done finger joint but I though a router would be better if your joints are wider than the saw kerf. I did see a blade which was which I assume designed for finger joint with a 6mm kerf.

smbooth
Posts: 405
Joined: 29 Jul 2012, 00:20

Re: Building an 8x10.

Postby smbooth » 07 Jan 2013, 21:32

Blades are called dado blades

Lachlan717
Posts: 494
Joined: 03 Aug 2012, 16:49

Re: Building an 8x10.

Postby Lachlan717 » 08 Jan 2013, 05:50

smbooth wrote:Blades are called dado blades


Two-bit piece of shite Triton doesn't take Dado sets. It's really a pretty average saw. I'm considering replacing the top with a router bench and getting a decent bench saw. One of its biggest drawbacks is not having the standard 3/4" accessory track found on regular bench saws. As such, things like sleds are a PITA to make.

If this design doesn't work, I'll be off to Carb-Tec soon.

smbooth
Posts: 405
Joined: 29 Jul 2012, 00:20

Re: Building an 8x10.

Postby smbooth » 08 Jan 2013, 07:45

Found this , might be of interest, but I assume you have been hunting around

http://www.shopnotes.com/files/issues/1 ... joints.pdf

I have the opposite problem, the saw I have has a nice cast iron deck with twin rebates but the motor is a washing machine motor and old rip blade customized to fit the shaft by my father. I have a motor to replace it with but need to get the shaft and blade clamps re-machined to take standard blades like it should of been done it the first place. Your giving me the incentive to get it done now.

Lachlan717
Posts: 494
Joined: 03 Aug 2012, 16:49

Re: Building an 8x10.

Postby Lachlan717 » 08 Jan 2013, 08:45

smbooth wrote:Found this , might be of interest, but I assume you have been hunting around

http://www.shopnotes.com/files/issues/1 ... joints.pdf



Thanks, Shane.

This is (basically) what I'm battling with now. I just can't get a repeatable result for all 4 corners…

I did consider this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VK4JYV2YZbA, but the price (AUD$279 or US$149; go figure) and its one-at-a-time design kinda put me off.

Off to the hardware store now to get the timber for the aforementioned screw advance design. Last chance for the Triton...

Andrew Nichols
Posts: 181
Joined: 11 Dec 2012, 17:19

Re: Building an 8x10.

Postby Andrew Nichols » 11 Jan 2013, 22:56

Tritons are agricultural machines.

Carba tec has some iffy products.

There are plenty of finger dove tail jigs out there

I almost bought a festo one.

But a jig for router seems sensible.

Saws a bit ruff.

Andrew Nichols
Posts: 181
Joined: 11 Dec 2012, 17:19

Re: Building an 8x10.

Postby Andrew Nichols » 11 Jan 2013, 23:09

If you look on eBay under jointer buzzer woodfast
There is a nice old school jointer in vic for 200
New ones at carba tec are 1000

A jointer is essential to give you a strait edge

A saw will follow the contours you wish to avoid. Resulting in why the fffff won't it line up syndrome.

Ps how do you creat links with one word so I can go " here " ;enter fancy pansy kinky link


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