X Ray Film

[Bazz8]

4_2014
Barossa Valley Cottage
8x10
Fuji HRT
wrong time of day exposure was just muddy

4_2014
No2 same exposure the difference is in the printing times
lacks Contrast
also the dark area in developing was appearing
I saw it first as a Light leak in camera or
my Durst D_659 using the 50mm lens as light source for the contact Printing

Photo Club Crew
Nourlunga and Southern Districts S.A
Exposure F11 1/10th sec
2pm taking time
Clarendon

Jack
Exposure and time as above

Ian
Exposure and time as above

Exposure and time as above

All film was Fuji HRT
Dev Rodinal 1:100
1000mm used in trays with Glass on the bottom

I was bemused at the Portrait results possible causes
Sun Position
Dark area cause 1. light leak( wrong)
Enlarger with condenser showd 1 stop of light difference from cenre to outside of frame
This kept me occupied for several months testing and almost getting the light to 1/3 stop more in the centre of print.
KI shots are next these above I considered bad,should see the dark area on those.

[andrewch59]

Hi Bazz, I don't know much about the Durst enlarger, but had problems with my De Vere 4x5 when I first saved it from the tip. The mirror, which is placed at 45 degrees in the path prior to the diffuser was old and gave me blotchy uneveness due to a loss of reflective film on the mirror, and I bought some very hard to find globes. May I ask what you are rating your Hrt green film at? I use the same film and have settled on ISO 80. I gave up on tray developing for 4x5, could not stop the blotchy results and turned to rotary, which works well at 1:150.
Here are a couple I took yesterday at a local car meet

One is out of frame slightly as I was sitting in the middle of the road apprehensive of getting run over by a hot rod.
I used a Sironar N 135mm and a Kodak Commercial Ektar 8.5 inch, the ektar surprised me and will be used a lot more frequently now.
Cheers Andrew

[Bazz8]

Hi Andrew The Durst D659 was called the mini laboritor,
I have the Durst 138S with a Ilford 500 head coupled to the RH Design analyser.
The enlarger is a condenser type and has a distinct bright spot in the centre of the frame, I tried using a glass diffuser to even the exposure and after quite some time settled on using the 75mm lens.
I rate the HRT around 60 although because I use BTZS this can change as low as 25-30 depending on the light.
You are right tray development has caused me some considerable grief.
Tonight I will post up some of the worst KI shots whick ended up with dark patches in the centre of the image, due to the light reading from my enlarger I was sure it was due to the enlarger light source.
bazz

[andrewch59]

BTZS tubes, do they cause scratches? Surprisingly I have no trouble tray developing 8x10 and larger? If I don't use the Mod 54 (modified) I use an ancient stand tank that only allows 3 films at a time, but very economical. I have a smaller Kaiser enlarger that is used as an arm rest most of the time, didn't know you could get a hot spot with them? Probably asking you to suck eggs, but does stopping the lens right down help?
Well its Apple and Grape season up here at the moment, so I'm off to get pics of grape vines today, if the mercury allows.
Regards Andrew

[Bazz8]

BTZS tubes would scratch the Fuji HRT easily, I use trays to develop my film.
My biggest issue has been over agitation when developing.
My reference to BTZS is in regards to exposure , the app is on my phone.
I have on record every shot take when,where,film,filter,development time of each different developer.
The shots I have posted to in some way encourage the use of Orthographic film such as HRT and Rmin which I am using .
BTW great shots of the Cars.
Bazz

[andrewch59]

Thanks Bazz, yes I worked out the BTZS and pm'ed you. I always relied on the zone system and spot metering for those shots you can't get up close to take an exposure reading. I kind of solved the blotchy results with 4x5 dev by using the old stand tanks, they look a lot like hip flasks, my latest takes 3 sheets and minimal developer. will have to look at this app of yours, I have since found BTZS reference material and will delve a little deeper.
I'm trying my hand at Kallitypes at present and don't do as much image taking as I would like.
Andrew

[Bazz8]

I am a TAFE lecturer with Advanced Building, my peak times for shots are between semesters,
We start teaching in a week so no photos for a while
Bazz

[andrewch59]

Look forward to seeing more of your pics
Regards Andrew

[Bazz8]

After getting some usable images evening the light source on the Durst D659 I was ready to go.

I have a 20mtr Norfolk Island Pine In our front yard. this is a scan of the 2nd shot the first was ruined by developing the neg in trays without using a piece of glass. The 3 stripes were easy to sort out, the slightly darker area not so.

This shot was taken at Narracort early morning
nothing special but mostly even exposure.

KI 10 days of shooting most of the negs were useless,two causes lightleak from being heavy handed when taking out the darkslide and replacing. This shot was taken into the sun.

More of the same,I was at the time convinced of a lightleak,not over agitation when developing.
All negs are Fuji HRT and 1:100 Rodinal Dev

Another with the same flaw of my own doing.

Another the same early morning exposure,The last time i went here the tree is almost flat.

All for now most of these are 2014 -2015 shots
the entire KI trip was a waste for X-Ray sadly 2500 km over 10 days
chasing light.

[andrewch59]

Is it the negatives? or the print?