4x5 point and shoot.

[alexn]

Well I went and threw together a 4x5 point and shoot made of pine laminate (as a test... if/when I complete it I will have it remade of either hardwood or perhaps black acetal)

At this stage the body is about 7mm too thick and I do not know how to bring it down accurately... Obviously I dont want to introduce any un-wanted movements...

Does anyone know of a way I can with a reasonable degree of accuracy take between 6 and 8mm off the camera.. If I take too much off I will lose some foreground sharpness, but if I take too little off I can just stop down to F/32 and that should bring everything into focus.

I plan on building another one around my 47 5.6 which should be a bit more forgiving than the 90mm..

Ideas?

[Lachlan717]

Do you mean that the distance from the film plane to the lens is too deep? I wasn't sure.

Also, what tools do you have access to? A decent router table (with adjustable guards) will do this extremely well if you have the right bit (easy to do and to find). A simple micrometer measurement of the bit-to-guard will give very tight tolerances; tighter than the expansion/contraction of the pine!

[alexn]

Yeah the flange focal distance is 7mm too deep... Distance between the back of the shutter to the film plane..

I dont have a router myself but I do have access to one through a mate.. I might give that a fly... On the other hand, I've just had an offer on my 75/4.5.... I might wait until after the sale then build a new camera around the super wide 47/5.6.... This time I wont be so cheap and I'll put a helical focuser on the front... (and make it out of something that wont expand and contract so much!

[smbooth]

How you make this Alex, is it a square box, I would of made it narrower than it need to be then pack out the len using modeling sheet styrene which you can can in .5, 1 and 2mm.

[alexn]

Yeah mate its just a wooden box with a graflok back on the rear and a linhof lens board on the front.... I know for next time, aim for 0.5~1cm short then shim out the lens board until hyperfocal is achieved.

The camera I'm drawing up for the 47mm F/5.6 is going to have a helical focuser on the front. I'm aiming to have the camera, with the focuser wound all the way out to be about .5cm longer than the flange focal distance.. Then wind the focuser in to achieve focus....